A model

On the previous post, I wrote about extreme quality food and its market placement, wondering how to create an identity to goods that are so unique and precious to their producers. I must say that the subject first came to my attention when I learned about a company that does that job in its very own fashion, succeeding tremendously and inspiring people like me.

First time I read about Ceretto was when my boyfriend was searching on the web for an interesting kitchen to work in whenever we came to live here. This one chef was the shining star among several respectable names: Enrico Crippa. At Piazza Duomo, he was presenting an innovative cuisine, with strong roots in the Italian/Piedmontese tradition and still, full of influences from the chefs and places that form his background, such as Gualtiero Marchesi, Michel Bras, Ferran Adriá and his whole experience as a chef in Japan. Piazza Duomo alone was already impressive, specially after coming across a strong sense of purism all over the region. But that wasn’t all. Allow me to say more about the restaurant on the paragraphs to come, it certainly deserves a closer look. First I want to clarify the link between Ceretto and Crippa, as well as other connections I’ve stumbled upon - in awe - during the way.

Ceretto is a family owned winery, set in Alba for over 70 years and owning nowadays several independent estates all over the area of Langhe and Roero. The second generation, back in the 60’s, implemented a production based essentially on the terroir, along with a thorough selection of grapes, that led to outstanding Barolos and Barbarescos. Today, with the expansion of the territories, the group also produces Arneis, Moscato, Dolcetto, Barbera and grappas.

On the course of its history, the family has benefited from a harmony that reminds the onlooker of yin and yang: both second and third generations contain principles of tradition and modernity,  represented by each of the family members and in perfect balance, as the Tao concept of complementarity. In the second generation, this was represented by two brothers: one with a contemplative nature, focused on the technical aspects of winemaking and devoted to bring the tradition to its prime; the other gifted with the frame of mind that made the business successful in terms of marketing, commerce and finances. The brothers had children, who nowadays are in charge of the business, and in doing so find means to exercise their very particular talents. The results go far beyond excellent wines that are highly representative of their terroir.

The perception of wine as culture acquires a broader and more concrete meaning, aside from the exhaustively talked about art of making terroirs speak through winemaking. Don't get me wrong, I am all for aknowledging the wine I drink, but there are places and occasions to go on about the whole process. Trying to express in words the beauty of it tends to steal much of what would be better appreciated in silence. Apart from the risk of becoming a big clichè, taking for granted those who drink. In Ceretto, the communication is carried out in the opposite direction, not talking redundantly about the art and beauty in wine, but associating their product to mind blowing projects that put the drinker/spectator in a longlasting state of reflexion. Each of the initiatives carried out by the company is carefully constructed, aiming to not only connect wine with culture, but to place such connection in its own context.

Take for instance the cases of The Grape, The Cube and the Chapel, singular pieces of architecture placed in key spots of the Piedmontese region. The Grape is this big transparent bubble, suspended above the vineyards at Monsordo-Bernardina, Ceretto's headquarters. It aims to represent a single grape berry, and along with the whole hospitality structure that encompasses it, dominates the stunning landscape of the Barolo territory. The Cube, on its turn, is a representation of Barolo itself, being an imponent glass structure, with sharp edges, standing on the top the Bricco Roche hill, in Castiglione Falletto. The sharpness, the solidity, the angles and the material stand for the wine's strong, concentrated and unapologetic profile. Finally, The Chapel used to belong to an estate bought by the family in the 70's. Built in the beginning of last century, it was abandoned for several years, until its remarkable renovation, in 1997, which covered the old building in multiple vibrant colors, an odd and unexpected sight in a region of overall conservative architecture. Apart from these examples, Ceretto holds the Premio Langhe Ceretto, a book prize focused in pieces dealing with wine and food culture. For more distinct and particular these initiatives may seem, they do hold as a common factor a tight bond to the area where the wines come from, all taking place among the vineyards in the Piedmontese hills.

As soon as I arrived in this area, visiting the winery and dining at Piazza Duomo became absolute priorities. I just had to assess with my senses the actual effect of all these tailor made ventures, which by then had only enticed my curiosity and raised admiration from afar. I ended up being even more impressed. First, on the day when I visited Monsordo Bernardina. It was Sunday, and upon arrival, we noticed the absence of cars and a general quietness, giving the impression that the place was closed. Since our taxi had already left, we decided to explore the area, looking for hidden passages or any living soul who might give us some helpful information, while admiring the breathtaking sight of the hills. Finally, this door opens as if by miracle, and we walk in to find a dark and deserted cellar, filled with barrels of different vintages. But still, no sign of human life. Even though by that moment it looked a lot like a haunted cantina, we kept searching very bravely, until reaching a long dark hall. In the end of it, abundant light. Looking closer, we found an elegant dining room, framed by glass and leading to The Grape. There, a group was tasting several bottles, guided by this lovely young woman, who welcomed us, offering a table outside. Although she was working alone on that day, we got an attentive service, clear explanations and some excellent wines. Not to mention the landscape around us, a beautiful setting surrounded by hills, vines and silence. On that day, we tasted Arneis, Nebbiolo, Barbaresco, Barolo and Barolo Chinatto. It was my first opportunity to taste the three versions of Nebbiolo grape at the same time, allowing me to assess the effects operated by the ageing. It was also a first on tasting Barolo Chinato, a newly found (as far as I'm concerned) perfect match for dark chocolate.

Although my impressions on the winery couldn't be any better, I had even higher expectations regarding Piazza Duomo. Apart from the idea expressed by the restaurant’s website, the 2 Michelin stars made a considerable endorsement to Crippa’s cuisine being a memorable experience.Therefore, on a Thursday evening, a few weeks ago, I was all excitement and anticipation. Two feelings that gradually changed into joy, surprise, emotion and satisfaction as the seven courses of the Tradizione e Innovazione menu danced on our table.

The pictures below do not make justice to the actual dishes. I obviously lack photographic talent, and in my defense I can say that the camera used was the iPhone, besides the fact that I was more concerned in tasting the wonders being served than in capturing the best light and angle. I also apologise for not remembering the exact names of everything that was served. It is an extensive menu and I wasn't taking notes.

When the amuse bouche arrived, we had to interrupt the conversation in order to dedicate our attentions to every single one of them. The influences absorbed by the chef were on display since the beginning: dashi flavoured rice biscuits; thin blades of dried cod; pane di oliva con lardo e fiori... Delicate (though very particular) flavours and minimalist presentation prepared our palates for what was to come.

 

As a starter we got the insalata 21..., 31..., 41... 51! That’s the number of components contained in this colorful and attractive bowl. With it came an envelope where each of the vegetables was listed. There it goes (in Italian, which helped me develop my knowledge in culinary language): acetosella rossa, acetosella verde, alga nori, basilico, basilico, rosso, basilico greco, basilico anice, buon enrico, calendula arancio, calendula gialla, calendula rossa, calendula viola, calendula bianca, cerfoglio, crescione, crespino, dragoncello, fiore di borragine, gentilina, grano saraceno, indivia, insalata dei campi (trusset), levistico, maggiorana, menta, mizuma rossa, mizuma verde, mordigallina, nepetella, origano, papavero, parella, pimpinella, prezzemolo, primula, rucola, rucola selvatica, sarset, scarola, sedanino, senape, sesamo bianco, sesamo nero, shisso rosso foglia piccola, shisso verde foglia grande, shisso verde foglia piccola, strigoli, tarassaco, timo limone, trevisano, violetta e zenzero. On the base of the salad, a small plate containing a liquid to be drank after eating. All those flowers and herbs, combined with the orangy dashi flavour perceived in the liquid caused me the feeling of having a blossoming garden in my mouth. And that is an amazing feeling, in case you’re wondering.

Pomodoro, mozzarella e merluzzo

coniglio a lenta cottura, barbabietola, rape bianche olive nere

This was possibly the most surprising and luscious bit of our dinner: crema di patate, uovo di quaglia, tè lapsang souchong. A velvety potato cream topped by the smoky lapsang souchong and dried white truffles. On the bottom, a quail egg with runny yolk. In one tiny cup, you get Asia and the Piedmont, comfort and surprise, all perfectly combined. Simply genius.

Spaghetti cacio, pepe, ginepro e cioccolato

Tempura, salsa de agrumi e bottarga, arancia e finocchio. Light and crispy, precise cooking points, citrus sauce on the base and a powder made with bottarga, orange and fennel.

Vitello. On top, a crust made with breadcrumbs and almonds.

spugna alla nocciola con riduzione al caffè. Doesn't the spugna look exactly like a sea sponge? Light and fluffy, standing on top of a hazelnut gelato. Quite sweet, balanced by the bitter coffee reduction.

Above, the petit fours, comprised by chocolate truffles, orange and chocolate shot (with the twist of disappearing in the mouth, Adriá style), frutti di bosco, lemon and malt meringue, rice crisps with raspberry, and biscuits accompanied by milk. Not any milk, but a rich and spicy one, that I would like to have for breakfast every morning.

Well, this was a post inside a post inside a post. Has anyone read everything? I just felt that writing about each individual feature of Ceretto's approach to wine, food and culture would impair the sense of broadness and their context driven ideas, always revolving around tradition and innovation - by no coincidence, the name of one of Piazza Duomo's tasting menus. I highly recommend a visit to their website (http://www.ceretto.com/), and if possible, the in loco appreciation of what I tried to highlight in this post.